傩戏服装元素与现代服装设计结合的探究

The Discussion on Integration of Nuo Opera Costume Elements and the Modern Fashion Design

作者: 专业:设计艺术学 导师:乔南 年度:2011 学位:硕士  院校: 河北科技大学

Keywords

nuo opera, costume, mask, external form, inner feelings, traditional culture of China, modern fashion design

        本文在顺应当今对非物质文化遗产保护、传承的形势下,以武安傩戏服装(包括傩戏面具)为研究对象进行分析、研究,找出其服装存在的不足之处,借鉴其它傩文化圈内傩戏服装和其它艺术门类的优秀之处,对现有的武安傩戏服装进行丰富、充实;并从中提炼出能运用到现代服装设计中的傩戏服装元素,寻找其符合与现代服装设计、现代人们的心理的切合点,尝试运用现代服装设计理念将傩戏服装元素融入到现代服装设计中。将傩戏服装元素运用到现代服装设计中尚属首例,主要从傩戏服装元素的外在形式元素和内在情感元素两个部分进行分析,外在形式元素主要包括傩戏服装的款式、色彩、纹样、面料等;傩戏面具的式样、色彩、纹样等。内在情感元素主要包括傩戏服装元素传达出来的内在丰富、复杂思想情感。这样,设计出的服装才会神形兼备。在傩戏服装得以传承、发展的同时,为现代服装设计注入新的活力,提供新的设计思路。而在当今这个重视“文化”与“设计”的时代背景下突出民族、民俗传统文化特色,使服装真正成为时代精神、思想情感、文化内涵的载体,是现代服装设计更值得探寻的新的设计方向。将传统文化与现代时尚融合在一起,将从表面符号的简单使用提升到对文化内涵的感知与审美上,设计出具有中国传统民族、民俗元素与现代时尚设计和谐相通的、更具有中国特色的服装设计作品。让消费者不仅从身体上感受到舒适,同时使内心得到一种满足与寄托。
    In response to today’s non-material cultural heritage protection and heritage situation, this article chooses the Wu’an nuoxi costume (including the Nuo opera masks) as the study for analysis and research, hoping to find out the inadequacies of the costume, and obtain the advantages of other Nuoxi costume within the cultural circle of Nuo and other categories of arts so as to enrich the present Wu’an nuoxi costume. And the paper also hopes to abstract some elements of the Wu’an nuoxi costume which can be applied into the modern fashion design and find a common point which is suitable for the modern costume designing and the psychology of modern people, trying to use the concept of modern clothing design so that the elements of Nuo opera costume is able to be applied into the modern fashion design.It is the first case to exert the elements of Nuo opera costume in the modern fashion design, mainly analyzing from two parts---the elements of the external form and that of the inner emotion of the Nuo costume. The external form specifically include the styles, colors, patterns, fabrics and etc. of the Nuo costume and the styles, colors and patterns and so on of the Nuo Opera masks. The inner emotional elements mainly conclude the rich and complicated thoughts and feelings conveyed by the elements Nuo opera costume. In this way ,the appearance of the designed clothes can be well connected with spirit.This application not only makes it possible to pass on and develop the Nuo opera costume but also infuses new life into the modern fashion design and offers new design ideas. Under the background of the great emphasis on‘culture’and‘design’, how to highlight the cultural identity of the ethnic and folk tradition so that clothing can really become a supporting body of spirit of the age, thoughts and feelings and cultural connotation is a new design orientation that is worth being explored in a further step. The combination of traditional culture and current fashion will elevate the simple use on face into the perception and aesthetic faculties of the cultural connotation. In this way it can guarantee more design works will be made which contains ethnical and folk elements of Chinese tradition and the harmonious communication with the fashion design in modern times. Then the consumers will not only feel comfortable physically but also achieve a great enjoyment and comfort from their inner part.
        

傩戏服装元素与现代服装设计结合的探究

摘要4-5
Abstract5
第1章 绪论8-13
    1.1 本文的研究对象、目的与意义8-9
        1.1.1 本文的研究对象8
        1.1.2 本文的研究目标8-9
        1.1.3 本文的研究意义9
    1.2 本文的研究思路及内容9-10
        1.2.1 本文的研究思路9
        1.2.2 本文的研究内容9-10
    1.3 本文选题的现有研究状况10-13
        1.3.1 国外研究现状10-11
        1.3.2 国内研究现状11-13
第2章 关于傩13-20
    2.1 傩文化14-16
    2.2 傩戏16-17
    2.3 傩戏服装17-19
    2.4 本章小结19-20
第3章 河北武安傩戏概况20-27
    3.1 河北武安傩戏的历史渊源和特点21-24
    3.2 河北武安傩戏的现状24-26
    3.3 本章小结26-27
第4章 河北武安傩戏服装27-47
    4.1 河北武安傩戏服装的特点27-36
        4.1.1 武安傩戏服装27-30
        4.1.2 中国传统式样、色彩、纹样等文化元素在武安傩戏服装中的体现30-36
    4.2 河北武安现有傩戏服装的丰富与充实36-46
        4.2.1 武安傩戏服装现存的不足37
        4.2.2 对其它傩文化圈傩戏服装元素的借鉴37-40
        4.2.3 对其它戏曲服饰元素的借鉴40-43
        4.2.4 对其它民俗艺术元素的借鉴43-46
    4.3 本章小结46-47
第5章 傩戏服装元素在现代服装设计中运用的探讨47-69
    5.1 傩戏服装元素运用到现代服装设计中的意义47-49
    5.2 傩戏服装元素与现代服装设计的融合49-68
        5.2.1 傩戏服装外在形式元素与现代服装设计的融合50-61
        5.2.2 傩戏服装的内在情感元素与现代服装设计的融合61-66
        5.2.3 设计者与消费者66-68
    5.3 本章小结68-69
第6章 我国民族、民俗元素运用在现代服装设计中的发展前景69-78
    6.1 中国民族、民俗元素运用在现代服装设计中的发展前景69-74
        6.1.1 中国民族、民俗元素在现代服装设计中运用的现状69-72
        6.1.2 现代服装设计中的民族、民俗化与国际化72-74
    6.2 傩戏服装未来的发展前景74-75
    6.3 傩戏与现代服装设计结合的应用展望75-76
    6.4 本章小结76-78
第7章 设计实例78-80
    7.1 设计构思78
    7.2 设计群体定位78-80
结论80-82
参考文献82-85
攻读硕士学位期间所发表的论文85-86
致谢86
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